Trench coat

Lore & Background

The trench coat was developed as an alternative to the heavy serge greatcoats worn by British and French soldiers in the First World War. Invention of the trench coat is claimed by two British luxury clothing manufacturers, Burberry and Aquascutum, with Aquascutum's claim dating back to the 1850s. The trench coat became an optional item of dress in the British Army, obtained by private purchase by officers and Warrant Officers Class I; no other ranks were permitted to wear them. During the First World War, the design was modified to include epaulettes and D-rings. The shoulder straps were for attaching rank insignia; the D-ring was originally used for attaching map cases, swords, or other equipment to the belt. There is a popular myth that it was for attaching hand grenades. The design was dubbed 'trench coat' by soldiers on the front line. Many trench coats had large pockets for maps and cleverly placed flaps and vents to deal with odour associated with earlier rubber coats. What became known as the 'trench coat' combined features of a military waterproof cape and the regulation greatcoat designed for British officers. During the Second World War, officers of the United Kingdom continued to use the trench coat on the battlefield in inclement weather. Other nations also developed trench coat style jackets, notably the United States and the Soviet Union, and other armies of continental Europe. As the war progressed, shorter 'field jackets' became more popular, allowing more mobility. Trench coats have remained fashionable in the decades following the Second World War.

Reader's Guide

The trench coat's significance lies in its transition from a functional military garment to a lasting fashion icon. Originally designed for British Army officers before the First World War, it was worn in the trenches, giving it its name. Its traditional features—double-breasted front, storm flap, self-belt, raglan sleeves with cuff straps, and epaulettes—were all practical for military use, such as keeping water from running down the forearm when using binoculars. The coat was typically worn as a windbreaker or rain jacket, not for winter cold, and was sized to be worn over the British Warm coat. In recent years, makers have resized trench coats downwards to conform more closely to overcoat sizing. Its legacy was cemented by film stars like Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca and Peter Sellers in the Pink Panther films, making it a fashion staple available in many colours. The trench coat's businesslike respectability stems from its original role as part of an army officer's uniform. However, it has also acquired controversial associations: heavy metal and Goth fashion trends of black oilcloth dusters are incorrectly referred to as trench coats, and after the 1999 Columbine High School massacre, many US public schools forbade students from wearing trench coats due to cultural associations and the potential to conceal weapons.

Did You Know?

• The trench coat was originally made from gabardine, a worsted wool fabric waterproofed using lanolin before weaving.
• Traditional trench coats are double-breasted with 10 front buttons, wide lapels, a storm flap, and pockets that button-close.
• The D-ring on the belt was originally used for attaching map cases, swords, or other equipment, not hand grenades as a popular myth claims.
• Period advertisements from the First World War reveal that the trench coat was sized to wear over the British Warm coat.